POST-PROCESSING

Every avid 3D-Printer hobbyist begins post-processing their prints at some point. Everyone's timeline on when they begin is different, but it mine took about 2.5 years. The print once it comes off the print bed can be a bit, for a lack of a better word, rough. Some prints need support material to be able to print them which help keep the structural integrity of the model. After removing these supports. they can leave ununiform surfaces. This one of the many reasons hobbyist, like myself, begin trying to clean up the model.  

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The art of post-processing prints is a quite strenuous task. There is lots of sanding........lots and lots of sanding. There is also priming, filling, gluing, and finally painting. I would like to share with you some of the techniques I have researched as well as what I have learned from my own experiences

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Sanding

I'd say about 95% of the time you are post-processing you will be sanding. The research I have done states you should begin with no lower than 60 grit sandpaper. After that begin increasing the grit to 180, 220, 400, and 600. I follow this for the most part exactly with the exception of the 60 grit. I have tried to do 60 grit, but I feel it way too rough that it scratches the model more than I like. I begin using 80 grit which is a nice balance. The idea of starting with a rough grit is to get any of the really poorly printed areas. I usually sand for at least 5-7 minutes on each grit and then apply a coat of primer.

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Primer

The primer's purpose is to fill in any of the smaller gaps between the layer lines of the print that couldn't be sanded away easily. I would say the primer I use and most others in the hobbyist I found use works fairly well. I will leave a picture of the primer I use down lower in the page. The perk of using this particular primer is it not only fills in those gaps, but is it also very sand-able. The primer is more of an automotive primer which make is a little heavy duty.

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Filler

I have researched and also use a wood filler for seams between prints that either need to be glued together or for larger gaps and really can't be sanded away. The wood filler I use along with most of the other materials I use all can be picked up at Walmart. However, I have been very please with the wood filler I do use especially on my Batman mask. The seam up the middle of the head where it was glued was covered up very nicely by the wood filler. Check it out below or on the "Recent Prints" page.

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Glue

The glue I use is a little on the expensive side. For a 120ml bottle it cost nearly 35$. However, this glue made by a company named "3D Gloop" made this glue especially for 3D Printing hobbyist. It not only works as an adhesives for holding prints together, but can be used on the print bed to hold prints down while prints. In addition to both of those can be used as a smoother. I have only used this to hold my prints together, but do intend to experiment with it as a smoother in the near future.

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Paint

There are really two main options I've seen in terms of paints. There is acrylic paint and spray paint. My experience with acrylic paint has not been too pleasing. I think part of that has to due with what I was using. I had bought these acrylic paint pen on Amazon hoping they would due the job and I was not all that satisfied. However, I do want to try acrylic paint and a brush on a smaller model and see what results from it. The other paint is spray paint. In my recent prints I have been doing a lot of masks. With the masks being as big as they are I have been spray paints for the most part. There are some smaller details on some of the masks that might be easier done with a brush. In addition to the spray paint I have also been using a gloss coater to make this mask shine as well as protect it from the paint cracking.

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